【雙語美文】茶中君子龍井茶(The 'gentleman' of Chinese teas)
來源:中國日報網 作者:葉軍 整理:福建啟航翻譯公司
Among an estimated 2,000 Chinese teas, Longjing (Dragon Well) is the one that constantly ranks first on lists of the most famous Chinese teas.
據估計,中國茶有兩千種之多。而龍井茶常居中國名茶首位。
常喝龍井的老茶客有時會把它稱作“君子茶”。龍井茶產于浙江中部,人稱有四美:“色綠、香郁、味甘、形美”。龍井茶外形扁平、挺直而光滑。香氣獨特,人們喜歡以板栗和蘭花來形容。2012年,中國外交部把這種茶作為生日禮物送給里俄羅斯總統普京。
The appellation also probably comes because the tea has a long history. On almost every authoritative top 10 famous Chinese teas listings, Longjing rises to the top. In 2008, the roasting production technique of West Lake Longjing tea was listed as a Chinese national-level intangible cultural heritage.
之所以稱之為“君子”,可能還因為龍井茶深厚的歷史背景。在權威的中國十大名茶評選中,龍井總是占據首位。龍井茶炒制工藝是國家級非物質文化遺產。
The tea leaves undergo its first roasting. 炒青(或稱殺青、青鍋). 第一次機器干燥7分鐘左右,溫度170--190之間。出鍋時往下調10度出鍋
Cooling 回潮
A tea with such high status has legends and tales around it worthy of a TV series. Firstly, there really is a “dragon well”, a small pool of spring water located at the northwest foot of Wengjia Mountain to the west of West Lake in Hangzhou. According to a local legend, which is, of course, unconfirmed, the pool is believed to have a dragon in it. And the said dragon can access the sea through, presto, a subterranean channel. That’s also where the Dragon Well village and the Dragon Well temple are situated.
作為茶界老大的龍井茶,傳奇和故事足以拍一部電視連續劇了。在此列舉一二。首先,龍井之名,來源自一口真的“龍井”,在西湖西面翁家山西北麓。前人相信“龍井”中有龍,而且與海相通。另外,龍井也是村名,還有一個寺廟也以龍井為名。
The history of tea making in the West Lake area dates back to the Tang Dynasty (618-907). That dates the written history of tea in the area to more than 1,500 years. By the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), Longjing was listed among the top Chinese teas. It reached the top of the list during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), especially because of recognition from Emperor Qianlong.
此外,龍井茶很受清朝乾隆皇帝賞識。西湖地區制作龍井茶的歷史可以追溯到1,500年前。明朝時龍井就被列為名茶,但是到清朝,才開始得享盛名。
很可能因為當時杭州地區經濟發達,歷史記載,乾隆帝在61年統治生涯中,六下江南,據說有四次巡視龍井茶事。期間這位多才的皇帝不僅寫下了多首茶詩,還將獅峰山胡公廟前的18棵龍井茶樹封為“御茶”。自此,龍井茶成為貢品。其實,在現代,龍井茶也是國禮。
Some of the best-known West Lake Longjing brand names are those from Shifeng (Lion’s Peak), Wengjia Mountain, Yunqi (Cloud Dwell), Hupao (Tiger Run) and Meijiawu, all areas around the West Lake. With fertile lands and mountains on three sides, the area stops chilly winds from the north while retaining warm air currents from the south. That favorable geographical feature, along with superior local water quality, helps to produce a great tea.
西湖龍井的代表是“獅、龍、云、虎、梅”,分別是獅峰山,包括龍井村,翁家山一帶,云棲一帶,虎跑和梅家塢一帶。這些環西湖地區土壤肥沃,三面環山,既能阻擋北面寒流,又能截住南面暖流,再加上優質水源,自然條件得天獨厚。
Screening out incomplete leaves篩選
While West Lake Longjing is the representative of the tea variety, many other parts of middle Zhejiang also produce great Longjing. Hangzhou’s Qiantang district and Yuezhou district produce good Longjing tea. Xinchang in Shaoxing produces Da Fo Longjing, which has become better known over the years.
西湖龍井是龍井茶的代表。但是浙江其它地區也生產龍井茶。杭州除了西湖區,錢塘區和越州區也生產龍井。其它地區的龍井則統稱為浙江龍井。其中紹興新昌縣的大佛龍井名氣也很大。
As an anti-counterfeiting measure, in July 2011, Hangzhou’s West Lake district’s Longjing Tea Industry Association received a geographical indications trademark for Longjing tea, which means other regions cannot use the brand name West Lake Longjing to promote their teas.
作為一種防偽的手段,2011年7月,杭州西湖區龍井茶產業協會從國家商標局領到了“西湖龍井”地理標志商標證書。這意味著杭州西湖區之外的龍井產地都不能再使用這一商標。
Shouhui, drying with limestone, for 7-15 days. 收灰(成品)
Apart from other preparations, the tea goes through the traditional step of shouhui — limestone, wrapped in paper, is put in a pile of tea to reduce the heat of roasting and absorb the grassy odor. This step also helps to increase the tea’s aroma and make it more suitable for storing.
龍井制作工藝繁雜,尤其是成茶前的收灰,是一道非常傳統的工藝,是在炒好的龍井茶中,放入紙包的生石灰石,經過一周到兩周的密封封存,達到退火、收干、提香和保鮮的目的。
Longjing tea is one of the most expensive varieties in China. Teas made in early spring can sell for more than 1,000 yuan ($154) per 500 grams. The tea is picked 30 times each year until autumn, so buyers can always find more affordable prices. Some tea store also sells as little as 50 grams so anyone can get to try even the most expensive tea.
龍井茶,尤其是明前龍井,屬于茶價較高的茶類。精品明前龍井可以賣到數千元一斤。但是龍井茶一年到秋季可以采摘30次,因此完全可以找到買得起的龍井。另一方面,對于高價茶,有些茶葉店可以50克甚至更少的份量起賣,因此,少花點兒錢,也可以嘗到好龍井茶。

Brewing. 沖泡
作者葉軍,中國日報資深生活方式編輯
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